There was an interesting article in the FT today on the “morality police” and general sentiments about social restrictions in the Kingdom. Thought I’d share…
http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/b0302ba8-674e-11df-a932-00144feab49a.html
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Interesting Article on Saudi Society
Thursday, May 20, 2010
You're telling me...
*This was front page news when I was in Oman a few weeks ago. Due to iphone issues I am just now uploading the picture...oh what a dilemma...
A Quiet Saudi Weekend
It's been a busy week in Riyadh which has lead to a slow week on the blog. Unfortunately, I am stuck in the KSA this weekend due to work so I don't have any exciting adventures to share, but I'll share a few thoughts / perceptions from Saudi instead:
Following the news over here is interesting. Traveling abroad has always made me feel like the US is somewhat insular in how it reports news. This trip has affirmed that belief even more. While I've enjoyed more of a global perspective, I've particularly been interesting in the region's tilt on the news. It's also interesting to see which stories they care about.
The Time Square bombing attempt was understandably of interest given the ties to the Arab world. As I have said before, nearly everyone I have spoken to here despises extremist as much or more than Westerners.
The Miss USA results have been a hot topic over here. From my perception many people are proud, even after the stripper pole pics surfaced. That says a lot since this is probably the most conservative Arab state. I had a funny exchange with a Saudi the day after she won. He said, "ahhh, you think she is good now, you should have seen her when she was Miss TEEN USA." That's politically correct over here, but I got a kick out of how such a statement might be taken in the USA.
Another highly covered issue in the regional press has been the prevalence of ex-pat workers in the GCC states. I believe something like 40% of all workers in the GCC states are ex-pats (don't quote me on that but if I'm off, it's not by much). It's skewed due to places like the UAE where the figure is close to 70% (while very high and not sustainable it's partial due to the small number of indigenous Emirates). In the KSA the number is close to 30% (officially, it's likely much higher due to fake visa, etc). Anyway, there is a big push to make it harder for ex-pats to find work in Saudi and as a result visa laws have changed (which is highly disruptive to our business, btw). It's a real catch 22 for the GCC states. Many have high unemployment rates, but many people don't want to do the jobs the ex-pats are willing to do (and quite frankly, don't want to work as hard as ex-pats). I think this issue is going to be one the top 3-5 facing the GCC states going forward. You just can't outsource economic development forever.
There is something peaceful about the call to prayer. Everything stops for a moment and whether you are participating or not, it's a moment for pause. That said, it's pretty disruptive. All the shops close. Restaurants won't seat you. People walk out of meetings to pray. It can really break the flow of things...then again, that's the point.
We have a driving company we use on a daily basis and I am getting to know all the drivers. The other day I was speaking to Khalil who is from a small village in Pakistan. He comes here for a few weeks to work and then goes home for a week. He spoke of how in his village everyone knows each other. They all help when someone needs it. They always stop to talk on the street. He said the problem with Riyadh is that people are obsessed with material wealth and consumption. He said, what's the point? You can't take any of it with you when you go. I won't dive into my own opinions on the matter, but I thought it was an interesting take from someone from a vastly different background. I thought I'd share it because I know I sometimes forget what really matters.
Following the news over here is interesting. Traveling abroad has always made me feel like the US is somewhat insular in how it reports news. This trip has affirmed that belief even more. While I've enjoyed more of a global perspective, I've particularly been interesting in the region's tilt on the news. It's also interesting to see which stories they care about.
The Time Square bombing attempt was understandably of interest given the ties to the Arab world. As I have said before, nearly everyone I have spoken to here despises extremist as much or more than Westerners.
The Miss USA results have been a hot topic over here. From my perception many people are proud, even after the stripper pole pics surfaced. That says a lot since this is probably the most conservative Arab state. I had a funny exchange with a Saudi the day after she won. He said, "ahhh, you think she is good now, you should have seen her when she was Miss TEEN USA." That's politically correct over here, but I got a kick out of how such a statement might be taken in the USA.
Another highly covered issue in the regional press has been the prevalence of ex-pat workers in the GCC states. I believe something like 40% of all workers in the GCC states are ex-pats (don't quote me on that but if I'm off, it's not by much). It's skewed due to places like the UAE where the figure is close to 70% (while very high and not sustainable it's partial due to the small number of indigenous Emirates). In the KSA the number is close to 30% (officially, it's likely much higher due to fake visa, etc). Anyway, there is a big push to make it harder for ex-pats to find work in Saudi and as a result visa laws have changed (which is highly disruptive to our business, btw). It's a real catch 22 for the GCC states. Many have high unemployment rates, but many people don't want to do the jobs the ex-pats are willing to do (and quite frankly, don't want to work as hard as ex-pats). I think this issue is going to be one the top 3-5 facing the GCC states going forward. You just can't outsource economic development forever.
There is something peaceful about the call to prayer. Everything stops for a moment and whether you are participating or not, it's a moment for pause. That said, it's pretty disruptive. All the shops close. Restaurants won't seat you. People walk out of meetings to pray. It can really break the flow of things...then again, that's the point.
We have a driving company we use on a daily basis and I am getting to know all the drivers. The other day I was speaking to Khalil who is from a small village in Pakistan. He comes here for a few weeks to work and then goes home for a week. He spoke of how in his village everyone knows each other. They all help when someone needs it. They always stop to talk on the street. He said the problem with Riyadh is that people are obsessed with material wealth and consumption. He said, what's the point? You can't take any of it with you when you go. I won't dive into my own opinions on the matter, but I thought it was an interesting take from someone from a vastly different background. I thought I'd share it because I know I sometimes forget what really matters.
Friday, May 14, 2010
A Few Thoughts When Leaving Jordan
Next weekend I am going to stay in Riyadh. The next 10 days will be critical for the success of our project and I figure it is prudent to stick around. I am actually looking forward to it. Also, I am exhausted and could use a weekend of no travel before I start what is likely to be a whirlwind 3.5 weeks.
I have found the people here extremely kind. Jordanians and Omanis more so than Saudis, but that might partly be a result of the fact that I am working in Saudi and playing in the other places. It’s also not to say that Saudis are rude, but by comparison more reserved. I also tend to get more “looks” in Saudi than I have in the other places.
The people here seem overtly aware and concerned about the way this part of the world is portrayed and perceived in the United States…so much so that it’s often one of the first topics of conversation with cab or car drivers.
I am a bit surprised I haven’t run into more Americans while over here, especially on the weekends. Nearly every other white person I see is European. In fact, I am usually mistaken for European until I say I am American. Which to this point, has only been received well by whoever has asked (I hope it’s not because they think American tourists are sucker). That said, more than half of my team in Saudi is American.
One aspect of the Middle East that reminds me of my trip to China is the richness of history. American history, while spectacular, is just a blip on the radar of human existence. Spending time in places like Petra reminds me of how young my country really is.
Jordan Facts
Capital: Amman
Government: Constitutional Monarchy
Population: ~6.3M
GDP Per Capita: $5,620
Unemployment: 13.5%
Population below the poverty line: 14.5%
Major industries: Clothing, fertilizer, phosphate mining, tourism
Amman by Taxi
Today (Friday) I slept in a bit and then went to the gym and had a great run on surprisingly fresh legs (must have been the dip in the Dead Sea). I then had brunch and went for another swim. Swimming in the Dead Sea (or floating) is an incredible experience. You literally float on the top of the water with absolutely no effort at all. In fact, it takes more effort to go under for any amount of time (which I don’t recommend because it burns your eyes, and nose).
The view from Amman Citadel
More from the Citadel
Ancient amphitheater near City Center
Traffic in City Center
Oh, and I rubbed this Dead Sea mud stuff all over my face before I went in. Supposedly it cures all your skin’s problems if you leave it on for 15 minutes. I figured my face could use all the magical powers it could get, so I left it on for 30 minutes just to be safe. I fully expect to wake up looking like Brad Pitt tomorrow.
After the Dead Sea I had a sandwich and a few Coronas on the balcony of the hotel before heading out. I had a taxi drive me into downtown Amman for a quick tour. Amman is by far the country’s largest city. Roughly 35% (more than 2M people) of the entire population resides in Amman.
The city was built on seven hills and the buildings tumble down into Amman City Center. They are almost all white or beige and largely uniform in appearance. I took a few pics from the cab and then from one of the highest points in the city, The Amman Citadel (see below). Khalil (the cab driver) was a very nice man with a heavy foot. After our tour we went for a cappuccino before he took me to the airport.
Driving into Amman
The view from Amman Citadel
More from the Citadel
Ancient amphitheater near City Center
Traffic in City Center
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Petra - fied
So, Ahmad (the driver) picked me up bright and early and we started the 3 hour drive down to Petra. He was told by the company to take the "scenic" route. I am glad he did, but he had no clue where he was going. For the first 30 minutes we drove right along the Dead Sea coast line. It was gorgeous, but incredibly barren. The Sea is completely empty which I knew would be the case, but it was still odd to see. Ahmad spoke very good English and we had a nice conversation about Jordan, his background and the jilted perception of the Islamic world by the West.
There were a number of make shift settlements like the one below. I assume most of these people are migrant farmers (don't let the rocks fool you. There were patches of farmland, although few and far between). The living conditions looked pretty bad.
Jordan also extracts a number of minerals from the Dead Sea, so there were several factories along the way as well.
And, as mentioned before, farmland (bananas in this case)
We also passed a number of small towns that looked like they were on life support (like the one below). Many of the buildings looked abandoned either due to their deteriorating condition or because someone ran out of the money / interest to finish them. I was also struck by how rocky the terrain was. It wasn't really that sandy.
We then began the climb through the mountains to Pertra. This was a somewhat hair raising drive as most of the road was two lanes (barely) and there were rarely guard rails on roads that went right up to the edges of steep drop offs. Ahmad was a great navigator.
Sill, the views of the Jordan Valley were stunning and the drive was one of the highlights of the day. I'd recommend it to anyone over the Desert Highway (which we took on the way back and it could not have been more bland).
Ahmad got lost a bit so it took us longer than expected, but just after three hours on the road we rolled into Petra...
Ahmad expressed some interest in going into Petra with me so I offered to buy him a ticket (yes, I've resorted to buying friends over here). It was weird though because once we were inside I couldn't tell if he actually wanted to be there (I actually think he was hoping to find a friend who worked there that we couldn't locate). Either way, he came along.
To enter Petra you walk down an long descending path that weaves though a rock corridor. The walkway is called, As Siq.
And it keeps going...and going...
...until (look closely)....
PETRA!
Homes? Tombs? not sure...
Amphitheater
Parking lot.
Tombs & temples
Ancient columns
If you got it, flaunt it.
In case the tourists get unruly...
Future Leaders of Petra Club...
BFF
We made good time through Petra, spending ~4 hours hiking around and hitting all the big spots. It was a quick trip (some people will spend 2 -3 days in the city) but you work with the time you have, I guess. I would have liked to stay longer but...
...I had reservations for a swim and sunset back at the Dead Sea...
...which I made...
It was a full, but incredible day. It's a place that is without a doubt worth seeing.
There were a number of make shift settlements like the one below. I assume most of these people are migrant farmers (don't let the rocks fool you. There were patches of farmland, although few and far between). The living conditions looked pretty bad.
Jordan also extracts a number of minerals from the Dead Sea, so there were several factories along the way as well.
And, as mentioned before, farmland (bananas in this case)
We also passed a number of small towns that looked like they were on life support (like the one below). Many of the buildings looked abandoned either due to their deteriorating condition or because someone ran out of the money / interest to finish them. I was also struck by how rocky the terrain was. It wasn't really that sandy.
We then began the climb through the mountains to Pertra. This was a somewhat hair raising drive as most of the road was two lanes (barely) and there were rarely guard rails on roads that went right up to the edges of steep drop offs. Ahmad was a great navigator.
Sill, the views of the Jordan Valley were stunning and the drive was one of the highlights of the day. I'd recommend it to anyone over the Desert Highway (which we took on the way back and it could not have been more bland).
Ahmad got lost a bit so it took us longer than expected, but just after three hours on the road we rolled into Petra...
Ahmad expressed some interest in going into Petra with me so I offered to buy him a ticket (yes, I've resorted to buying friends over here). It was weird though because once we were inside I couldn't tell if he actually wanted to be there (I actually think he was hoping to find a friend who worked there that we couldn't locate). Either way, he came along.
To enter Petra you walk down an long descending path that weaves though a rock corridor. The walkway is called, As Siq.
And it keeps going...and going...
...until (look closely)....
PETRA!
Homes? Tombs? not sure...
Amphitheater
Parking lot.
Tombs & temples
Ancient columns
If you got it, flaunt it.
In case the tourists get unruly...
Future Leaders of Petra Club...
BFF
We made good time through Petra, spending ~4 hours hiking around and hitting all the big spots. It was a quick trip (some people will spend 2 -3 days in the city) but you work with the time you have, I guess. I would have liked to stay longer but...
...I had reservations for a swim and sunset back at the Dead Sea...
...which I made...
It was a full, but incredible day. It's a place that is without a doubt worth seeing.
Amman, Jordan
There must be a baby convention in Amman this weekend because there were like, 32 of them on my flight into Amman. Good news though, no 8 hour delay this week.
I didn't see a great deal of Jordan this evening. I took a cab for about 45 minutes from the airport to the hotel on the Dead Sea. I did see moderate poverty in the form of numerous abandoned or dilapidated buildings and a number of closed shops. Jordan doesn't possess the natural resources of other countries in the region and at least from what I have seen, it is evident outside of Amman. That said, Jordan has experienced ~10 years of substantial economic growth. The new King (Abdullah II*) is economically progressive and has made Jordan one of the freest and most competitive economies in the region. Jordan's economy has been growing at a rate of 7% over the last decade, no small feet.
The beach was closed by the time I arrived at the hotel. I had dinner on the patio overlooking the Sea.
I am learning quickly not to order a martini in the Middle East. They do a lot of things well here, martinis aren't one of them.
On that note, I tried a Jordanian red wine...and I think it might have been carbonated.
My lack of planning bit me tonight. Hertz (which has an office on the resort complex) can't get a car here by the morning. I probably should have called in advance. Anyway, I've hired a driver instead, which is more expensive...by a lot. BUT! I am going to Petra in the morning no matter what. Pick up is at 745. Time for bed.
*While King Abdullah has done well with the Jordanian economy, he's doing ok in his personal life as well...google Queen Rania...
I didn't see a great deal of Jordan this evening. I took a cab for about 45 minutes from the airport to the hotel on the Dead Sea. I did see moderate poverty in the form of numerous abandoned or dilapidated buildings and a number of closed shops. Jordan doesn't possess the natural resources of other countries in the region and at least from what I have seen, it is evident outside of Amman. That said, Jordan has experienced ~10 years of substantial economic growth. The new King (Abdullah II*) is economically progressive and has made Jordan one of the freest and most competitive economies in the region. Jordan's economy has been growing at a rate of 7% over the last decade, no small feet.
The beach was closed by the time I arrived at the hotel. I had dinner on the patio overlooking the Sea.
I am learning quickly not to order a martini in the Middle East. They do a lot of things well here, martinis aren't one of them.
On that note, I tried a Jordanian red wine...and I think it might have been carbonated.
My lack of planning bit me tonight. Hertz (which has an office on the resort complex) can't get a car here by the morning. I probably should have called in advance. Anyway, I've hired a driver instead, which is more expensive...by a lot. BUT! I am going to Petra in the morning no matter what. Pick up is at 745. Time for bed.
*While King Abdullah has done well with the Jordanian economy, he's doing ok in his personal life as well...google Queen Rania...
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Amman, the Dead Sea and Petra
Also, my time in the Middle East is starting to come into better focus. It looks like I’ll be here until either June 16th or 23rd. Here is how I think it will play out:
5/12: Jordan
5/19: Likely staying in Riyadh for work
5/25: NYC for a few days for work
6/2: Not sure – possibly Tel Aviv (though it is very tricky due to the Saudi / Israeli relationship…you basically have to convince the Israelis not to stamp your passport), or Syria
6/9: Beirut (hopefully with the team)
6/16 or 23: Possibly London or Istanbul on the way back to the States
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